Mary's Veggie Garden

July 17, 2017

July 17, 2017 Community Gardens Plot Tour and Harvest

Filed under: Cabbage,Floating Row Cover,Lettuce,Onions,Seeds,Sweet Potatoes,Tomatoes,Vegetables — marysveggiegarden @ 6:40 pm
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Yesterday, I photographed my garden plot at the Vassar Farm Community Gardens. My plot is 20’x40′ laid out in beds 3.5’x14′ with 18″  wide beds along the fence.

This lovely weed, possibly a white heath aster, greets me at the gate. The old 2×4’s weigh down cardboard that keeps weeds out of the fence.

Overwintered Swiss Chard blooms just inside the gate.

Swiss chard is a biennial, blooming its second year. Sown May 2016, this plant survived the winter under a heap of abandoned light weight floating row cover. In forty years of growing chard, this is the first I’ve seen survive the winter. I’ve often wondered what happened the second summer.

Peppermint Swiss chard before harvest.

Two hours later – chard after harvesting 4 pounds.

The floating row cover protects broccoli, cabbage and kale from the ravages of cross-striped cabbage worms and imported cabbage worms. Background – my preferred vehicle for traveling to the Farm.

 

Foreground – sweet potatoes; back – cucumbers. The cucumbers had been growing under a row cover for protection against the bacterial wilt spread by cucumber beetles. I uncovered them for pollination when they started flowering a couple days ago.

 

A shade cover keeps a new carrot planting moist while germinating.

The shade cover is a piece of concrete reinforcing wire covered by a piece of old sheet. I sewed leftover bias binding to the sheet corners to use as ties.  I start a new section of carrots every 2 weeks during June and July. Even with shade I water the seed bed every 2-3 days. Germination is excellent under the cover.

The tiny plants in the foreground are more sweet potatoes. They are growing very slowly this year. The row cover protects cabbages and Chinese cabbages. Edemame soy beans and  corn are growing in the bed behind the row cover. Butternut squash is just beyond and tomatoes are last. The tomato plants are short and bushy because they were shredded by hail in early June.

The west side – Copra and Cabernet onions are against the fence. Bush beans are growing & flowering under the row cover for protection against Mexican Bean beetles.  Behind the beans are a few beets and a planting of summer crisp lettuces.

In the front are two blooming Cimmaron Romaine lettuce plants. Behind are my first carrot planting and more onions.

I try to harvest all the lettuce before it bolts but I always plant too much. I allow the last plants that bolt to set seed. I want to select for plants with delayed bolting when I save seed.

Harvest is the last job before I bike home. I try to keep the food in the shade of the bike, but there is precious little shade at noon. Shown here: 4 pounds of chard, some Lactinato kale and a bag of broccoli – one head and lots of side shoots. The onions and lettuce didn’t make the picture and the strawberries were eaten.

 

May 19, 2014

5/19/2014 Instant Garden

Filed under: Broccoli,Cabbage,Gardening,Leeks,Lettuce,Onions,Peas,Spinach,Vegetables — marysveggiegarden @ 7:52 pm
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I believe in planting a vegetable garden gradually. Some vegetables enjoy cold weather while others thrive in the heat. The gardener is happiest if the vegetables are planted when they are happiest.

Here are the cold loving crops in my home garden – planted gradually, starting as soon as the soil was workable. I gave the soil a few days to dry after the snow melted then started planting.

Snow Peas and Kale

Snow Peas  planted 4/2: ‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’  (right) and ‘Mammoth Melting Sugar’ (left end) and kale transplanted out 4/22.

Thanks to Daphne for her post reminding me that tulle netting will work for most pests. I’m protecting the kale from Imported Cabbage worms (the adult is a butterfly) and Cabbage Maggots (the adult is a fly). It should work for both. I supported the  netting with two small tomato cages because tulle is rough and I was afraid it would abrade the plants if it rubbed the leaves.

Cascadia Snap Peas and Tyee Spinach

Cascadia Snap Peas planted 4/8 and Tyee Spinach and a few radishes planted 4/9.

Unfortunately the Norway maples to the south  leafed out in early May so the garden is now part shade and  plant growth has slowed.

Lettuce

Lettuce transplanted 4/13

The lettuce is small but I’ve harvested a few leaves already.

Cabbages and Kohlrabi

Cabbages ‘Mammoth Red’ and ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’  and Kohlrabi ‘Kolibri’, all transplanted 5/2.

My other garden is  two plots (total 20’x40′) at the Vassar Farm community gardens. Normally I alternate planting the two gardens, but not this year.

In mid-March I stopped by the Farm. There was still 6-12″ of snow blanketing the gardens and I knew then that plowing would be late. Snow melt was followed by rain and the plowing didn’t finish until 4/22.  Usually I’ve planted by that date. I paid my plot rent and volunteered to help mark the plots. Finally on 5/5 they asked for help to finish marking.  Marking had started the previous Friday but was so wrong that another gardener and I along with 2 Vassar employees remeasured and marked the entire garden – about 120 plots. We finished around 2:30 p.m. and I could finally start my VF garden.

VF community garden plots after marking but before planting. There are 4 plots going across and 20 rows of plots stretching to the right.

A few VF community garden plots after marking but before planting. There are 4 plots going across and 20 rows of plots stretching to the right plus another section completely out of view.

My planting marathon:

  • 5/5 Late afternoon – measure, mark and rake garden paths; evening – return with husband and post hole digger to place fence posts.
  • 5/6  Morning – direct sow three varieties of spinach seed; afternoon – return with husband to staple up my fence of deer netting and chicken wire; evening –  bury 15′ of fence and transplant chard and beets.  Also transplanted ‘early’  lettuce and direct sowed radishes.
  • 5/7  Bury another 30′ of fence bottom, transplant 93 Cortland onions, transplant 12 kohlrabi and direct sow 13′ of the original Sugar Snap peas.
  • 5/8 Transplant 94 Cabernet onions. Fertilize and mulch all onions. Rain threatening.
  • 5/9   day off – raining. Should be good for all the seeds.
  • 5/10 rain stopped early. Transplanted some Asian greens and my ‘late’ lettuce plants. The late lettuce was supposed to be transplanted 3-4 weeks after the early lettuce, not 4 days later.
  • 5/11 Bury 30′ of fence, transplant broccoli and cabbages. Transplant celeriac.
  • 5/12 trench,  plant half of potatoes, back-fill,
  • 5/13 trench, plant the rest of potatoes,  back-fill, mulch bed. Transplant bunching onions then direct sow  three 4′  rows of Yaya carrots. Rain predicted for the rest of the week – should get the carrots off to a good start.
  • 5/14 mulch. The backlog of planting is finished!
  • 5/15 – 5/16 drizzle then rain. Not as much as predicted but a good amount – 1.2″. Sell vegetables in the drizzle at the Master Gardener Plant sale, our main fund-raising event.

I start most of my plants from seed under a fluorescent fixture in the basement. I don’t have much space under the lights so the pots are tiny and I time sowing to move plants into the garden while fairly small.  The onions and early lettuce spent an extra 3 weeks in the pots but they grew very little during that extra time. I’m hoping they are not permanently stunted.

I never expected to accomplish this much in 9 calendar days. Here is what it looks like.

Onions

Onions – so sad. They weren’t happy spending 3 extra weeks in the market packs.

The onions don’t look like much now, but it usually takes about three weeks before they look happy.

The lettuce had doubled in size.

The lettuce has tripled in size though it is still tiny.

Cabbages protected by tulle.

Broccoli protected by an Agribon floating row cover insect barrier. The cover is  8′ wide but extra width is tucked under a 2×4 behind the plants.

Assorted cabbages protected by tulle.

Assorted cabbages protected by tulle.

I’m worried about the broccoli and cabbages. I turn the soil with a garden fork before planting. (It’s been 2-3 weeks since plowing and weeds are growing.) I’m finding a lot of grubs in the turned soil, particularly in the areas closest to the grass where the Brassicas are planted. They look like the larvae of Japanese beetles or some closely related beetle. I killed every grub I found but I suspect I missed many. I wouldn’t want the adults to emerge under my row covers.

Beets

The beets were transplanted on schedule and are looking good (but need more mulch.)

The radish, pea, and spinach seeds sprouted rapidly. Radishes and spinach are showing their first true leaves and have also been discovered by the flea beetles. I’m still waiting for carrot sprouts, but they were planted only 6 days ago and needed the rain that didn’t fall.

The sugar snap peas will be trellised as soon as I bring over the post hole digger.

The sugar snap peas will be trellised as soon as I bring over the post hole digger.

Cornell says that later planted peas often catch up with earlier plantings because they grow so fast in the warmth. I’ll compare the start of this year’s harvest to the last two years to see how true that is.

This strange yellow pea plant is in the sugar snap row. It seems to be growing fine despite its weird color.

This strange yellow pea plant is in the sugar snap row. It seems to be growing fine despite its weird color.

And I have harvested this week: 2# rhubarb made into rhubarb bread, an overwintered leek put on our home-made pizza, spinach leaves from the 7 plants that overwintered under our 2′ of snow and garlic & common chives for scrambles eggs.

Spinach

Spinach – looking very moody.

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